and Landa Park
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The Comal Springs are the largest in Texas and the American southwest. Seven major springs and dozens of smaller ones occur over a distance of about 4,300 feet at the base of a steep limestone bluff in New Braunfels' Landa Park. The Springs and the Comal River below are home for a federally endangered species, the Fountain Darter. In Spanish, comal is a flat griddle used for cooking tortillas, so the name probably refers to the flat area below the bluff where the springs issue forth. The largest and most easily visited is the one shown at left, just west of Landa Park drive.
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These springs were a favorite camping place for native Indian tribes for thousands of years, and many artifacts and burial mounds have been found. In the language of the Indians the Comal Springs were called Conaqueyadesta, which means "where the river has its source" (Ximenes, 1963). The Comal River arises entirely, except after major rains, from springs in this vicinity and flows for just over two miles through Landa Park and New Braunfels before confluencing with the Guadalupe River. It is said to be the shortest river in the United States.
When Spanish missionaries arrived in 1691, they found a huge concentration of Indians at Comal Springs, some from as far away as New Mexico (Brune, 1981). In 1716, Juan Espinoza encountered the beauty of the springs and more than a few ticks:
Soon we reached the passage of
the Guadalupe which is made of gravel and is very wide.
Groves of inexpressible beauty are found in this vicinity. We
stopped at the other bank of the river in a little clearing
surrounded by trees, and contiguous to said river. The waters
of the Guadalupe are clear, crystal and so abundant that it
seemed almost incredible to us that its source arose so near.
Composing this river are three principal springs of water
which, together with other smaller ones, unite as soon as
they begin to flow. There the growth of the walnut trees
competes with the poplars. All are crowned by the wild
grapevines, which climb up their trunks. Willow trees
beautified the region of this river with their luxuriant
foliage and there was a great variety of plants. It makes a
delightful grove for recreation, and the enjoyment of the
melodious songs of different birds. Ticks molested us,
attaching themselves to our skin (Tous, 1930).
The "three principal springs" described by Espinoza were probably the two large and one moderately large spring on the west end of Landa Lake. The Spanish never established a permanent presence here, although it was the location of an early Spanish mission, Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe, from 1756 to 1758. In 1827 the league containing the headwaters and Springs was granted to Juan Martín de Veramendi, Mexican Governor of Coahuila and Texas.
In 1844, German settlers arriving in Texas under the auspices of an emigration society, the Adelsverein, discovered they had been grievously deceived regarding the suitability and ownership of a tract in the Hill Country intended for their settlement. In San Antonio, society organizer Prince Carl Solms was told by John Rahm, an old Texan, about "Las Fontanas" - a place where huge natural springs formed the headwaters of a perpetually flowing river. With his first immigrants living in deadly conditions at the coast, and with waves of thousands more expected, Solms was desperate to establish an inland way station. Dan Murchison, a scout belonging to Captain Jack Hays famous company of Texas Rangers, piloted him to Las Fontanas. In March of 1845 he purchased the site from Veramendi's heirs for $1,111 (Harby, 1888).
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This image appeared in the Magazine of American History Illustrated, November 1888. |
In 1847 William H. Merriweather bought the Comal Springs tract. Merriweather built a saw and grist mill and a cotton gin on the property. His slaves dug a millrace to divert water for power. The Springs were dynamited to increase their discharge and eventually harnessed for many commercial purposes. By 1860, seven grist, flour, and sawmills were using the Spring waters for power. There were also cotton and woolen factories, a paper mill, an ice plant, and a brewery. Hydroelectric power was generated using springflows from 1890 until about 1950 (Brune, 1981). New Braunfels merchant Joseph Landa purchased the site in 1860, and by the 1890s it had become known as Landa's Pasture and was a popular picnic and recreation spot. In 1897 Helen Gould, daughter of railroad financier Jay Gould, visited the Pasture and was impressed by its beauty. She suggested that the International and Great Northern build a spur into the property. The Missouri, Kansas and Texas railroad also built a track into the park, and excursion trains from San Antonio and Austin brought tourists. It became known as Landa's Park and grew into one of the most popular resorts in the Southwest. During the Depression, the Park was closed and surrounded by a barbed-wire fence, and local residents organized a petition drive to hold a bond election aimed at providing funds for a city purchase. In 1936 the city purchased 128 acres including the headwaters and adjoining springs, and two additional tracts totaling 72 acres were purchased later (Landa, 1945 and Haas, 1968).
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An early photographic view of the large spring west of Landa Park Drive. Another photograph from the same roll identifies the ladies as Mrs. Gough, Isabell Stark, Mrs. Frey, APJ, and Viora Frey. On the back, one of them wrote:
Section of Comal River. In one place it is 12 feet deep and the bottom is seen as clear as though there was no water.
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Today, Landa Park is still a mecca for local residents and tourists. Attractions include nature trails, paddle boats, a large spring-fed swimming pool, a miniature train, a golf course, and lots of sites for picnicking and celebrations. Swimming is no longer allowed in a large portion of Landa Lake because of the presence of the endangered species. Fountain darters can be easily observed at the paddle-boat landing. Landa Lake is very shallow and lined with gravel washed in by floods from upstream Blieders Creek. Many small springs issue forth through the gravel, their locations marked by bubbles and schools of fish that congregate around them. The freshwater zone is very narrow here and the "bad water" line is less than a mile from Comal Springs.
Flows at Comal Springs become intermittent when the level of the J-17 index well drops below 620 feet. All flow at Comal ceases at an elevation of 618 feet. During the '50s drought, the Springs were dry from June to November of 1956. In a repeat of the 1950's drought, Comal Springs would be dry for a number of years. The Comal River population of the fountain darter was completely eliminated by the 1950's drought when the river was reduced to isolated pools of water. The species was reintroduced using individuals from another population in San Marcos, where the Springs never dried up completely.
Only a small portion of total springflow comes from the largest springs shown in the graphic above. Special springflow measurements made by the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service and the U.S. Geological Survey determined that most of the spring flows (about 78%) come from the many small springs and seeps under and around the shores of Landa Lake (McKinney and Sharp, 1995). Most of the water that becomes Comal springflow originates with recharge far to the west of the Springs and moves through major flow zones in Medina and Bexar counties on its way toward New Braunfels (see Flowpath Map). In five ground-water trace tests performed by Ogden, Quick, and Rothermel (1986) around Comal Springs, none of the dye appeared at any of the spring orifices. This supported earlier hypotheses that very little recent, locally derived recharge waters emerge from Comal Springs.
Data from dye-tracer studies also suggests there are some separate flowpaths that feed the individual spring orifices. Ogden, Quick, and Rothermel (1986) discussed their conversation with a scientist (Rettman) who injected dye into a well in Panther Creek about 500 feet from the nearest spring orifice. The dye emerged from one orifice but not another nearby. The trace was repeated and the results were the same. In March 2002 these results were duplicated by scientists from the Edwards Aquifer Authority, who injected green dye in the shallow well in Panther Creek. In less than three hours the dye started showing up in surprisingly strong concentrations in one spring, while no dye was seen in another spring only 10 feet away.
Official flow records for Comal Springs begin in 1928 and have been uninterrupted since then, giving Comal the longest period of record for any of the Edwards springs. The chart below shows it is typical for springflow rates to settle in at about 200 million gallons per day and decline very slowly if dry conditions are extended for a long time. The sharp peaks that extend off the top of the y axis do not represent springflows - they are caused by surface stormwater runoff during flood events. During dry weather, all the water that passes by the gage can be attributed to springflow. For the latest Comal springflows see the USGS Real-Time data page.
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A view looking downstream from the main spring |
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Looking upstream toward the concrete steps and the large spring west of Landa Park drive. As you can see, water clarity is
exceptional. |
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A similar view as above. The bridge in the postcard above is gone now. |
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The stone next to the large spring opening has traces of a thick shiny coating that archaeologists tell us is mostly animal fat built up over thousands of years of use in food preparation. |
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Most of Landa Lake is off-limits for swimming and wading because endangered species are present. Wading is allowed in this spring-fed channel that feeds the swimming hole in the photo below. |
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New Braunfels residents and tourists flock to this swimming hole on hot summer days. |
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For $3 per person, you get 30 minutes of paddle boat time, but they are not real strict about it if you show up back at the dock a little late. It's a great way to see the Lake and also get some exercise! |
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A school of large fish in Landa Lake. Endangered fountain darters are also present. |
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Another attraction in Landa Park is this large spring-fed swimming pool, complete with bathouses and lifeguard protection.
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Taking a ride on the miniature train is a good way to get a feel for the layout of the Park. |
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Legend has it this is the Founder's Oak, where founders of New Braunfels held their first council meeting in 1845. |
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This image appeared in the Magazine of American History Illustrated in October 1888. Author Lee C. Harby wrote:
The first meeting of the council was held under a large oak in the lovely park of the Comal Springs. The tree was then crowned with verdure, and the gushing, sparkling water sang its song to the luxurian caladiums which grew along its margin. Here the German girls came to fill their buckets, which they carried suspended from each end of a yoke which lay across the neck. These they still use, and very picturesque and un-American do the girls look in their straight skirts and short bodices. |
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Part of it says:
Visited in
1764 by French explorer St. Denis. Later a stop on El
Camino Real. In 1845, the area was settled by German
immigrants under Prince Carl Solms-Braunfels and called
Las Fontanas. 1300 surrounding acres were purchased for
$1,111. |
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Part of it says:
Good features at this site included five springs, fertile fields, timber, meadows and the nearby river. Two friars ran the small mission, with a citizen guard, so as to avoid friction. Four Spanish families and 47 Indians (27 of them baptized) comprised the inhabitants of this mission as of January 1757. |
Comal Springs postcard collection
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The earliest postcard I have found of the Comal River. Mailed in 1900. This is Clemens Dam, just downstream from the Springs, which later became known as Stinky Falls. |
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A 1906 view of Clemens Dam. |
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The earliest postcard I have found of Landa Park - not mailed but has a penciled date of June 2, 1906. |
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In August of 1907 Miss Maynort wrote to Miss Elma Bright:
You left too soon. Am still having a good time. See where I am. |
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Mailed on August 10, 1907 to Miss Stella Masters in Swanville, Indiana. On the back, an apparent suitor lamented that she had gone far away and wrote:
I am afraid we will not get to cross this bridge. |
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Postmarked Jan. 25, 1910. In those days postcards were like the text message of today, and it was expensive to send a lot of them. Ella Wise wrote to Miss Pauline Pepper:
Thank you very much for your postal. You don't know how much pleasure it gave me. But I am sorry to say that I cannot correspond with all for I am not able to. So I hope you are satisfied with this postal because that is all I can send you and no more. |
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Postmarked Dec. 7, 1908. |
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A water wheel in one of the upper spring runs. Miss Lucille Stappes father wrote to her:
How are you getting along. I am in the park writing this. - Papa |
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Not mailed or dated, but from the stamp box on the back the postcard dealer believed it was produced circa 1910. |
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Postcard
mailed in 1911 shows a scene in Landa Park. |
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An early 20th century view of the large spring next to Landa Park Drive before the concrete steps were built. On the back, Leonard wrote:
We made our hike all right and have sure got a nice place to stay. I think we will be here for a week or so but still send my mail to my old address. I'll get it alright. |
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Not mailed or dated, but appears to be circa 1910 - 1920. |
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An unusual sepia tone card with a hand-tinted blue sky. Also unusual because it was produced in New Braunfels; most cards of the day were produced in Germany or in printing houses back east. |
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Another version of the card above, also produced in New Braunfels by B. E. Voelcker & Son. |
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Not many people remember that steam boats used to ply the waters of Landa Lake. The card was not mailed or dated, but the style dates it as probably being produced between 1910 and 1915. |
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A view of the Lake circa 1910 - 1915. |
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Another view of the Lake in the postcard style that suggests a production date between 1910 and 1915. |
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A view of the swimming pool from the time when black and white striped bathing suits were in style! |
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This area of Landa Park was known as "Camp Placid" around this time. A view of the swimming pool, bath house, and sleeping porches. |
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Mailed on August 16, 1916 to Mrs. Louis Hazelton in Chicago. Eunice wrote:
Dear Aunt Lou. Arrived here in good health and all's well. Expect to stay a week. Albert is feeling well. Regards to all and my Muriel. With love, Eunice. |
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Mailed in August of 1918. |
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A similar scene to the one above, but the tree next to the bridge appears to have suffered some storm or ice damage, so this one was probably produced slightly later. The cactus also appears larger. |
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Not mailed or dated, but is from the "White Border Period" of postcards that lasted from 1915 to 1930. Probably produced mid 1920s. |
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A handwritten date on the back is "July 4, 1927." Perhaps a memento of someone's holiday visit to Landa Park. |
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Hydroelectric power was generated using springflows as early as 1890. This power plant in Landa Park was built in the 1920s and operated until 1972. It sat vacant and decrepit for many years, until 2004, when a project began to re-develop the site into loft apartments. |
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Another view after an expansion that doubled the plant's size. |
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A view of the northwest end of the Lake. Never mailed. Produced by the same manufacturer and about the same time as the card above. The gazebo pictured is still there. |
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A Real Photo card mailed in October of 1939. |
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On the back of the card, Frances wrote to Miss Lucille Brown of Borger, Texas:
Hi Pal -
Surely bet you'd like this cool place - lots of fishing, swimming, boating. Better come on down. I came on Friday - will return Sunday. Be good. Love, Frances. |
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This postcard mailed on July 4, 1945 shows the
rock walls and steps that still surround the largest of the Comal Springs have
remained basically unchanged for over 60 years. |
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A view of the swimming pool circa late 1940s. The back caption says:
Landa Park Swimming Pool, where thousands swim weekly. 70 degrees year round temperature. Millions of gallons of Spring Water continuously flow through this pool. |
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An early 1960s view of Landa Lake. |
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A view of the Landa Park swimming pool that appears to be circa 1960s |
Though it winds for only two short miles through New Braunfels before confluencing with the Guadalupe River, the Comal River's importance as a recreational destination is long and legendary. In the mid 20th century, Stinky Falls, Camp Warnecke, Camp Ulbricht, Camp Giesecke, and Camp Placid were all popular sites. In 1979, the Schlitterbahn Waterpark first opened on the site where Camp Warnecke was, and today it is one of the country's premiere water parks.
Stinky Falls was located at Clemens Dam, the site of an earlier dam and mill built by John F. Torrey in 1850. Mr. Torrey operated a grist mill, a cotton factory, and a wool factory, and he rebuilt his facilities several times after partial destruction by floods until all were finally washed away. In 1882 banker William Clemens acquired the property and built a new cut limestone dam to supply water under contract to the city of New Braunfels, but it soon became idle when the city built its own waterworks operation next to Landa Park. In 1907 a well was drilled nearby for the purpose of acquiring pure artesian water, but it produced only hot and smelly sulfur water. The well was left flowing, and the site became a popular swimming spot for kids long before anyone invented water parks. It became known as "Stinky Falls" (Sophienberg, 2006).
By the 1960s, Stinky Falls was drawing mostly unsupervised teenagers and hippies from all over the state. Though popular, the site was entirely unsafe. In the early 1970s I witnessed a lot of dangerous diving and risky swimming through the dam's outlet. The name "Stinky Falls" could just as easily have referred to all the weed. In 1976, the city built the New Braunfels Tube Chute at the site and capped the well. It is still an extremely popular summertime cooling-off spot.
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In the old days, before the sidewalks were built, there was a lot of risky diving from the raised platform on the right. The New Braunfels Tube Chute is seen entering the River on the left. |
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If you don't have the $40 bucks to get into Schlitterbahn, the city-owned New Braunfels tube chute is almost as good and lots cheaper. |
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Just below Clemens Dam, the Comal River teems with people on a hot summer morning in 2009. |
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The Schlitterbahn Waterpark, on the site where Camp Warnecke was located, is consistently ranked as the best water park in America. |
Just below Stinky Falls and Clemens Dam, Camp Warnecke was one of the top family summer resort areas in South Texas for most of the 20th century.
Camp Warnecke was created by A&M professor F. E. Giesecke, who purchased a 60 acre site in 1910 for the purpose of establishing a summer school for students. A generator attached to a waterwheel provided electricity the first year, however, the contraption was unreliable because the paddles of the wheel were warped on one side, causing an irregular turn and sudden dimming and flaring of the lights. The second year the electricity was provided by Harry Landa.
By the 1940s, Camp Warnecke was a large and popular attraction. Long trains of swimmers hooked tubes together by locking feet under the armpits of the one in front of them, forming a train to “shoot the rapids”. Another favorite pastime was “catching the ledges”, which involved diving into the rapids and hanging on to the limestone rocks. If you were “shooting the rapids”, the trick was to avoid being tumped over by young local boys catching the ledges. After tumping you over, they would help you get back into your tube. (Sophienberg, 2006).
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Canoes on the Comal River at Camp Warnecke. Mailed in October of 1940. |
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Mailed in July of 1944. Marie wrote to the Mittag family in Eunice, Mexico:
Here we are at Camp Warnecke having fun. Sure wish you were here. Will try to see you this summer. Mom said she will drink a beer on Uncle Max. Love, Marie. |
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A group of tubers that look like they are preparing to form a train and shoot the rapids. Not mailed or dated, but the linen stock suggests it was produced in the 1940s. The caption on the back says:
Warnecke's Camp, New Braunfels camp of distinction, where swimming, boating and fishing is the byword on the Crystal Clear Comal. |
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A blog on the Sophienberg Museum site reports that Camp Warnecke made the cover of Life Magazine in 1951, but I think this is a fake. It doesn't have the 'LIFE' letters inside the distinctive red rectangle, and Carol Braun was on the cover of the actual August 6 edition. |
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A 1950s era postcard from Camp Warnecke. The Camp had little cabins all along the shady banks of the Comal River. In 2009 Jim Walters recalled they were true cabins, with no refrigerator, just an icebox. In the 1950s, summertime stays at Camp Warnecke were a tradition for his family. He declared that:
Heaven is bound to have such a river, where you can just float along on a hot afternoon, without a care in the world, exerting no energy and feeling no stress. (Walters, 2009) |
Camp Ulbricht and Camp Giesecke
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Other resorts on the Comal River included Ulbricht's and Giesecke's. This card was not mailed or dated, but the linen stock suggests it was produced between 1930 and 1944. |
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Mailed in August of 1945. The back caption says:
On the banks of the Comal River, within the city limits, are Camp Warnecke, Camp Ulbricht, and Camp Giesecke. Accommodations are modern here, where cooling gulf breezes fan the city, which is located just below the escarpment of the Edwards Plateau at the entrance to the scenic Southwest Texas "Hill Country." |
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The artistic license that lithographers took in creating colored postcards is evident by comparison with the card above. This Real Photo card mailed in 1947 apparently served as the base image for the highly colorized version above. |
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Another view of Ulbricht's Summer Resort, mailed in 1962. |
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So far, this is the only image of Camp Giesecke that I have seen. It was included in a collection of 18 images that were featured in a postcard mailer marketed to tourists. Unlike other collections, they were not intended to be separated and mailed as individual cards - the entire booklet was mailed with all the accordion-folded images intact. |
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