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The San Antonio River
Native American Uses and European Discovery For over 100 years, many historians and scholars believed it likely that Cabeza de Vaca was the first European to encounter the Springs in the 1530s, but recent research has provided strong support for an opposing interpretation that most of de Vaca's escape route to Panuco was through Mexico, not Central Texas (Chipman, 1987 and Olson et al, 1997). The first Spaniards known to have visited the Springs were members of a 1691 expedition led by Domingo Teran de los Rios and Father Damian Massanet. On June 13 of that year they pitched camp alongside a group of friendly Payaya Indians at the River's headwaters. It happened to be the day of Saint Anthony of Padua, and they named the spot San Antonio de Padua. By 1680 the Spanish had begun to fear French expansion into lands claimed by Spain, and between 1709 and 1722 several Spanish entradas, or formal expeditions, made their way across Texas. These explorers realized the gentle plain below San Antonio Springs was a strategic spot for a permanent stronghold against French incursion. Franciscan missionary Antonio de San Buenaventuara y Olivares arrived with one of these expeditions at the San Antonio River on April 13, 1709 and was so pleased with the river site that he began a nine year campaign to build a mission on the banks. On May 1, 1718 Olivares broke ground, built a hut of brush and grapevines, offered Mass, and named his mission San Antonio de Valero. The mission later became known as the Alamo and the shrine of Texas liberty. Originally, the mission was west of San Pedro Springs, not on the San Antonio River. It was moved to the east side of the San Pedro Springs in 1719 where farmland was better, and then was moved to the location now occupied by St. Joseph's church. Hurricane floods destroyed it in 1724 and the mission was then moved to its final location on the banks of the San Antonio River (Noonan-Guerra, 1987). The Acequia Systems When the Spanish arrived for good in 1718, they immediately began constructing a system of irrigation ditches, or acequias, to divert water from the San Antonio River and San Pedro Creek to farmlands. At first the work was carried out by the missionairies themselves and Indian converts, but most building was eventually carried out by settlers such as those arriving from the Canary Islands in 1731. Eventually five mission complexes were established, linked by seven acequia systems, between the headwaters of the San Antonio River and its confluence with the Medina River. The acequias served as San Antonio's water system for almost two hundred years. They were remarkable engineering feats for their time, and some are still in use. See the San Antonio Springs page for more on the acequias and more photos.
The 1800's: Beautiful Servant
Few cities have had such an intense love affair or such an intimate relationship with their river as San Antonio. Year round bathing in the River was a San Antonio tradition and was described by Frederick Marryat in 1843:
By 1850, San Antonio had made a servant of its River. It powered waterworks and mills, fed irrigation ditches, provided drinking water, put out fires, and carried sewage downstream (McLemore, 1980). In 1877 Harriet Prescott Spofford, writing for Harper's New Monthly Magazine, rode on one of the first trains to San Antonio and declared "On a more enchanting spot the eye of poet never rested. There is probably nothing like it in America." Spofford wrote:
The River's Decline and the Early
Beautification Efforts Public sentiment in favor of saving and beautifying the River continued to grow. On February 10, 1910 the Express-News headlines announced "Public Wants River to Receive First Attention". Later that year the Civic Improvement League began efforts to beautify sections of the River downtown by planting grasses, flowers, and shrubs.
In
September 1911 a small group of River-loving citizens formed the San Antonio
River Improvement Association, and declared that a way to revive the River must be
found. Mayor Bryan Callaghan, loathe to spend any public money on the
River, grudgingly approved installation of a pump on an abandoned well in
Brackenridge Park to provide the River some flow. Mayor Callaghan died
suddenly in office in 1912 and was succeeded by reform-minded Augustus H. Jones,
who immediately established a City Plan Committee and made River beautification
his top priority. A flurry of plans followed. San Antonio architect
Harvey L. Page devised a plan to line the River for 13 miles with reinforced
concrete slabs, add decorative concrete bridges, and have numerous benches turn
the banks into "a vast park". Using city money, River
Commissioner George Surkey began building a modified version of Page's plan that
established a uniform width for the downtown River channel with low concrete
covered rock walls dubbed "Surkey Sea Walls". Sodding and
planting followed, and Surkey sought another artesian well to double the River's
flow (Fisher, 1997).
San Antonio River, 1836 and 2000
When the "cutoff channel" was proposed betwen points A and B in the graphic above, some believed it would be a waste to let it sit empty while the "Great Bend" that meanders close to the Alamo carried the River's normal flow. The Great Bend took up seven acres of prime commercial territory, and real estate promoters thought it should be filled in and the new cutoff channel allowed to carry the River's flow at all times. San Antonians once again had to come to the rescue of their River, and numerous civic clubs formed such a well-defined counter-movement that city politicians clamored over each other to roundly condemn the idea of filling the bend. Citizens also organized to defeat a roadway that would have run parallel to the River near La Villita and completely overhang the River in some locations. After the cutoff channel was finally completed in 1929, attention could once again be turned to beautification of the River, and beautiful it did become! Robert H. H. Hugman and the San Antonio River Walk
Hugman's plan was heartily endorsed by Mayor C.M. Chambers, so he began presenting it to civic and community leaders, stressing the great commercial value it would impart to the River. However, a prime objective of civic reformers who controlled city hall was the hiring of a professional city planning firm to develop a master plan for the entire city, including the River. The City Plan Committee hired Harland Bartholomew and Associates of St. Louis, a national leader in comprehensive city planning. Bartholomew's plan for the Great Bend area of the River was very different from Hugman's. It was to be completely natural and pastoral....a greenway with no commercial development at River level. However, by the time the plan was finally finished and formally recommended to city commissioners, the Great Depression was in full force. No action was taken on either the Bartholomew or Hugman plan, although the city did continue to enhance the River with new plantings and flowerbeds. In 1936 Texas celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Republic, and the Daughters of the Republic of Texas made beautifying and preserving the natural charm of the River one of their centennial projects. It sparked an affirmation of public interest in the River. During Fiesta week, Plaza Hotel manager Jack White sponsored a River boat parade and more than 10,000 people crowded the banks, demonstrating that San Antonians had not lost enthusiasm for their River. White also saw that Hugman's commercially-oriented plan presented many more business opportunities than Bartholomew's. White organized the San Antonio River Beautification Committee, which hired Hugman and Edwin P. Arneson to prepare drawings for a project to submit for Works Project Administration (WPA) funding. The plan was estimated to cost almost $400,000. The Committee collected $40,000 from businesses along the River, secured some additional funding from the City, and got WPA funding for the remainder in place by the end of 1938. In 1939, after a full decade of debate and delays, work began on Hugman's San Antonio River Walk under the Work Projects Administration. Hugman supervised the project for less than one year before he was fired. The Great Bend of the River had always been mostly natural and pastoral, and powerful members of the Conservation Society were concerned about the new look. The fresh white limestone of the arched bridges, the concrete walkways, and the new theater stood in sharp contrast to the natural setting that existed before. Plantings had been temporarily removed and the channel drained, so there was an overall barren and disheveled appearance. In January 1940 the Society passed a resolution condemning Hugman's work as a "desecration of the beauties of San Antonio" and sent him a letter criticizing the "excessive stone work." Mayor Maury Maverick agreed with the critics and thought he would force Hugman to concentrate more on landscaping by cutting his supply of stone. When Hugman learned that materials for his project were being diverted to another WPA project, La Villita, he collected documentation and presented it to a judge who also sat on the River Project Board. Instead of supporting him, the Board unanimously dismissed him. Many of the elements Hugman intended, such as a curtain of water to screen the Arneson theater stage, were never built. On March 13, 1941 the Works
Progress Administration formally turned over the River Walk to the City of
San Antonio. There were 17,000 feet of new sidewalks, 31 stairways, 3 dams,
4,000 trees, shrubs, and plants, and numerous benches of stone, cement, and
cedar. An estimated 50,000 people lined the River Walk on April 21 to
dedicate the project and watch the first of what became an annual parade of
boats. Even so, Hugman's work was highly under-appreciated and mostly
deserted for several decades. Military personnel were banned from going
there, and locals believed it to be seedy and dangerous after dark. Finally,
during the Hemisfair in 1968, the image of the River Walk began to be
transformed and it became an international sensation.
Today the world-famous San Antonio River Walk is the crown jewel of Texas and a major tourist attraction. Beautifully landscaped along its winding course through downtown, it is still most beloved by residents of the city. For decades, the entire dry weather flow was derived from wells in Brackenridge Park. But in June 2000 the San Antonio Water System began augmenting the River's flow with recycled water, allowing the wells to be cut off and reducing potable Edwards Aquifer water use (see Newsflash). Today the River flows stronger and cleaner than it has in decades. Even so, the River we stroll along now hardly resembles the tremendous flow of crystal pure spring water that used to be here instead. The Texas Natural Resource Conservation Commission and others have identified high fecal coliform bacteria counts as a water quality concern, so contact recreation is not supported in the San Antonio River (see TNRCC, 1996). This could be caused by leaks from sewer collection systems, but it seems more likely it is related to human activities along the River such as sidewalk washing and people feeding ducks and fish from River Walk restaurants. Many tourists and even most local San Antonians are unaware of the River Walk's complete extent through downtown. Most think of the River Walk as just the "Great Bend" area where the floodgates have allowed hotels and restaurants to develop right along the River's banks. But the River Walk actually extends much farther. If you are visiting San Antonio or you are a local going downtown, you owe it to yourself to wander past the floodgates and see the rest of the River Walk. The north section extends past the floodgate up to the Municipal Auditorium at Lexington Street, past office towers and attractions like the Southwest Craft Center. The southern portion winds through the historic King William district where you can stroll past many graceful 19th century mansions. When the River Tunnel was completed in 1997, it was thought the main channel outside the Great Bend area would be afforded enough protection from flooding that development could begin at River level. However, 100 year rains in October '98 caused major flooding along the main channel and many had to re-think ideas about new development at River level along these stretches of the river. In 2001 a long-standing property dispute between the City and River Walk tenants appeared to be headed for a very interesting court battle. A portion of the funds the City uses to maintain the River Walk comes from rents charged to restaurants and bars who place tables along the walkways and kiosks near the water's edge. Several businesses, claiming that rates were too high and inequitable and that funds were not used for River Walk maintenance, had not been paying rent for as long as 12 years. Moreover, the businesses claimed they owned the land in question and they had deeds dating back to Spanish colonial times to prove it. The City claimed the businesses only owned land up to the edge of their buildings, since the walkways and kiosks weren't created until the River Walk was built in 1939. There did not appear to be any way for the businesses to win, even if they won in court, because in any event the City could simply condemn and take any land that a jury decided belonged to the restaurants. And any money the businesses might receive as compensation could be recovered by the City through even higher rents. In August 2001, just before the trial was to begin, the parties reached a deal in which the City obtained clear title to the lands, and tenants got more equitable rents, long-term leases, and seats on an advisory panel that would have a say in how revenues would be spent. While it is likely the San Antonio River will
never again resemble the crystal torrent that early explorers found, significant
water quality improvements have been documented recently. In June of 2002
scientists from the San Antonio River Authority discovered a log perch, a darter
that is highly sensitive to pollution, in the San Antonio River below Loop
410. In this area the River is almost completely water that started as raw
sewage and was cleaned up at SAWS' Salado Creek Water Recycling
Center. Up until the late 1980s poor treatment plant operations, poor
stormwater quality, and influxes of dumped toxic materials resulted in a
"dead zone" here that extended for many miles downstream.
Officials said that finding a sensitive fish species such as the log perch
indicates SAWS' treatment plant operations have been vastly improved and
stabilized, the City's stormwater control program has been effective, and
residents have done their part by ending their dumping of anti-freeze, oil, and
household chemicals that kill fish. In recent years, in addition to the
log perch, biologists have found other sensitive species such as stonerollers
and long-eared sunfish. The River is now rated relatively highly on a
scientific index that measures biotic integrity, and biologists expect the
sensitive species to continue migrating toward the downtown area.
By the mid 1960s, newly completed interstate highways vastly improved transportation and made the river canal idea seem wacky. There would be little need for trucks to offload in south Bexar county and send their cargo on a slow float to the coast when they could simply keep driving and be there in two hours. The river canal would also have been unusable during floods, and a nationwide awakening to the environmental impacts of such projects was underway. The plan was abandoned and largely forgotten. The wastewater return flows envisioned in 1962 by the Study Commission report never materialized. Because of conservation, reuse, and limits on Edwards Aquifer pumping, San Antonio's actual 2010 discharges will likely be 120,000 - 140,000 acre-feet, only a third of the volume projected in the 1960s.
On
March 16 2002 officials unveiled plans for an extensive San Antonio
River upgrade that will create a linear park more than 15 miles long
from Brackenridge to Mission Espada. The project will be
accomplished in five phases, cost more than $140 million, and take at
least 10 years. These improvements will focus on restoring the
River's natural environment and enhancing the communities along the
River's banks, not on amenities for tourists. New stream
meanders will be created in long stretches of the River south of
downtown that in decades past were channelized, straightened, and
lined with rip-rap for flood control. These stretches currently
resemble a drainage ditch (see photo
below), so new landscaping and trees will create a more natural
feel. Planners also envision bank-level urban development in the
northern reaches, and links to existing communities in the south. Urban development in the watersheds above Olmos Dam has led to larger, more frequent floods in the Olmos basin area. With more impervious cover, stream straightening, and stream channelization, waterways are able to deliver more water downstream faster. The Olmos Dam and the "Great Bend" cutoff channel can no longer ensure that floodwaters won't threaten downtown San Antonio. The San Antonio River Tunnel is the larger and longer of two tunnels designed to protect the downtown area by diverting floodflows 150 feet underneath the City. It took ten years to build and was completed in December 1997 at a cost of $111 million. The tunnel is about three miles long and passes almost directly underneath the Alamo! The inlet shaft is 24 feet in diameter, and water enters by overflowing from the San Antonio River. The outlet shaft is 35 feet in diameter and is at a lower elevation than the inlet, so the pressure of water coming in forces water out the other end, where it reenters the San Antonio River. When not being used for flood control, water can be recirculated through the tunnel and used to augment the flow of the San Antonio River in the River Walk area. The tunnel was put to the test during record floods in October 1998, and it functioned beautifully. After the floods subsided, divers found lots of beer cans and 5" crawfish, but no damage to the tunnel.
The inlet structure is visible from Hwy 281 S. just before the Josephine St. exit at the southern tip of Brackenridge Park. The outlet structure is an engineering marvel that is an attraction in itself! San Antonio has a second flood control tunnel that handles floodwaters from San Pedro Creek. A Walk on the Wild Side South of downtown, the San Antonio River quickly becomes less inviting, and then it turns into a dangerous, forbidding place where tourists and residents seldom dare venture. Between downtown and Loop 410, long stretches have been straightened, denuded of all trees, and the banks lined with large boulders and rip-rap. This has been done to allow floodwaters to quickly leave the area, so the general appearance is more of a drainage channel than a natural river. Beginning at Mission Espada just south of Loop 410, several miles of wide concrete and asphalt walkways connect the southernmost mission to San Juan and San Jose, but take special care if you try to make the walk in summer! There is little shade and the midday heat is brutal. Below Mission Espada, the River quickly turns into a wild and dangerous place with steep banks, thick vegetation, rapids, and endless other hazards like dams and debris. In August 2001 four visitors launched a canoe at Interstate 37 and planned on several hours of paddling to where the River crosses Loop 1604. Their canoe hit a rock and they ended up stranded on rotting logs and trash, trapped by steep bluffs, their only company being snakes and clouds of insects. Rescuers located them about 3 a.m. but the rugged terrain prevented their rescue until after daybreak.
The San Antonio River Postcard Collection Postcards from the early 1900's depicting the San Antonio River can still be found at area antique stores. While collecting these cards I have noticed that many times when one manufacturer produced a new card, others were not to be outdone and would produce a card of almost the exact same scene. The two below are an example of this. At this time, all of the flow shown here would still have been springflow, although wells had already been drilled in the Aquifer and flows had already become greatly diminished. Postcard manufacturers of the day would often add or delete things from their images. Notice the postcard on the left does not show the water tower that is in the other image.
Postcards of the San Antonio River Walk from the early 40's On March 13, 1941, the Works Progress Administration formally turned over the completed River Walk to the City of San Antonio. There were 17,000 feet of new sidewalks, 31 stairways, 3 dams, 4,000 trees, shrubs, and plants, and numerous benches of stone, cement, and cedar. An estimated 50,000 people lined the River Walk on April 21 to dedicate the project and watch the first of what became an annual parade of boats.
The two cards below show how Hugman incorporated a fountain into the sidewalk, giving the feeling one is walking across stepping stones over a brook. During a later River Walk expansion, designers wanted to duplicate the feature but building codes and safety concerns forced them to make it straight and add metal grates over the openings in the sidewalk where water flows. Needless to say, the feeling is not quite the same....
For the
full story of San Antonio's river and the River Walk, get these two
excellent books: |
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